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Trip to Sri Lanka in January 2009
The next day we visited prominent sacred buddhist places. Ancient Anuradhapura was established in the 4th century BC and became first capital. The nearby Mihintale is a sacred mountain, the site of introduction of Buddhism in Sri Lanka. 1840 steps take you to the top.. and Dambulla Rock Temple. It consists of five cave temples which served as monks meditation places already in 1st century BC. Large number of buddhas and frescos along with a spectacular view of the jungle below can be admired here. I also tasted local Rice&Curry. Could be good but hell in my mouth was too noticeable. Eating by hands did not became my favorite thing as well. Later I found out that I can manage eating the food if a fresh grated coconut comes along.
In the morning Sigiriya is our next destination. This high rock formation used to be a royal seat in the 5th century. The place is famous for its beautiful ladies frescos. Not recommended for those who don't like the heights. I realize what it means being on edge.. Hard to imagine how much work and human fates were wasted to build the palace on the top of the rock. The view is fantastic though. Polonnaruwa was a Sri Lanka's capital in the middle ages. The city was fortified and many remains of the beautiful structures can be seen here. Magnificent Buddha statues carved out of stone surrounded by monkeys date to the 12th century. Lotus Pond in the shape of lotus flower provided seating to the monks while bathing. On the road we were stopped by elephant who was looking to get something to eat. After getting few bananas he went back to jungle. We also realized why monkeys are not so cherished by locals like elephants. We watched a cheeky monkey stealing a bag of bananas from German tourists. A few minutes later the monkey had a party with her friends behind the corner. We also got acquainted with peacock flower, parasite tree and King Coconut. The King Coconut is filled by sweet and refreshing drink. On the bottom is a very tasty gelatine. You can see King Coconut growing all over Sri Lanka. Its oil is supposedly very good for hair and local people's hair can prove it at first sight.
The following day we passed beautiful scenery in the Matale region. Palm trees and rice fields are bounded by green hills and rocks. We stopped at the Herbal Spice Garden near Kandy. Have you ever seen growing pepper, vanilla, cardamon, cinnamon, ginger, clove, turmeric or chilli? It was absolutely amazing as well as the creams and oils made out of these herbs and used in traditional medical treatment Ayurveda. A money reserve for this place is highly recommended.. In the evening we made it to Kandy featuring the Temple of Buddha Tooth. The city is the second largest and it is situated in hills. We were accommodated in the recently renovated lovely Serene Garden hotel offering great views of the city and surroundings. We finally saw some tourists, otherwise the country suffers from the lack of tourists. In the Kandy's temple the Buddha's tooth is kept and therefore it is one of the most sacred Buddhist pilgrimage sites in the world. We experienced a daily ritual including opening the door of the sacred room for a few minutes.
Botanical gardens in Kandy were lovely. The best attraction was an orchid house with 300 different orchids. Giant ficus was unbelievable. Later we tasted a new fruit for us called Jack Fruit. Small yellow pieces in the shape half-moon taste different and very good. Apparently it is added sometimes into Rice & Curry just like bananas, pineapple or coconut. Out of 32 kinds of bananas we had that day another two - classic large yellow and red. Our favorite remained lemon bananas - small with honey taste. Our goal that day is Nuwara Eliya. A replica of the British town situated at an altitude over 6000 feets. The area produces some of the best tea in the country. Visiting tea factory must. Great accommodation in the old British colonial house called The Trevene (phone 0094 52 2222 767, email: nisa264@yahoo.com). Lovely people and tea always on hand. In the evening we even sat at the burning fireplace and enjoyed the moments with Ananda, Ravi and other travelers from England. I wish to have more time in Nuwara Eliya. Great place for nature lovers and trekkers.
Going down the mountains offers spectacular views of green tea plantations. Waterfalls, tea factories, tea collectors, funeral ceremony right at the road on the edge of the mountain, small town with hindu temple, jungle, an area where the movie The Bridge on the River Kwai was filmed etc.. So much to see and kind and smiling people everywhere. I wish I would get a smile like this in my city from a stranger on the street..
In the evening we arrived to Moragalla, Beruwalla a small beach village in the southwest of Sri Lanka about 2 hours driving south of Colombo. Our friends booked a wonderful accommodation for us. A terrace of the beach house overlooked the beaches, Indian ocean and a small paradise island with a lighthouse. The waves grumble was always present. Beautiful sunsets. Here we spent another week with exception of few days. I highly recommend this little place with wonderful owners. The area is not much touristy, there was only one small hotel next door with few Germans. The other neighbour hotel was completely destroyed from tsunami in 2004. The beach is empty. The village is though settled by locals. For food shopping we used to go to small town Alughama by tuk-tuk, a local taxi. During our stay our Sinhalese friends prepared for us fish barbecues and played kongos. Make a guess what kind of wood they use for barbecue.. We got a fresh fish at the local large fish market early morning. We bought some tuna and shrimps. Not much alcohol is available with the exception of Arak made out of coconut flowers and the Lion beer. Bigger hotels offer any drinks but count on high prices. Another time we took a yoga lesson with our friend Asela. He is professional yoga teacher. Practicing yoga on the terrace above the ocean had its magic. You can also take ayurveda lessons (traditional medical treatment), massages, aromatherapy, conduct diving or snorkeling.
We took a day trip to Sinharaja Rain Forest where we discovered unique species of fauna and flora which are to be found only in this forest. Birds, butterflies, centipede, lizzards, roosters, monkeys, orchids etc. For its wealth the Rain Forest is inscribed on UNESCO list.
Last trip took two days in the direction to Udawalawe and Yala National Park. In Udawalawe there is an Elephant Transit Park. Here you find about 30 baby elephants who were found abandoned in the jungle and they are kept and fed here until they become 3 years old and then they are returned to their natural environment. Feeding the babies was astonishing.
Yala National Park was a highlight of my trip. Living in the big city, the very close touch of nature here was for me a great moment. We had to hire a jeep and a driver. The best time is before the sunset when the animals go out and the heat is less annoying. We saw elephant families, beautiful does, buffalos, sambas, flamingos, peacocks, crocodiles and even a leopard! We spent a night in a beautiful Priyankara hotel in Tissamaharama.
We went back to Beruwala along the sea coast. We stopped at the memorial dedicated to thousands of Sri Lankans killed by tsunami in 2004. There are still visible remains of houses destroyed by tsunami. We visited a turtle farm. Turtle eggs are protected here and kept in incubators (sand), newborn turtles stay approx. 40 days and then are released into the ocean. Small turtles were so cute. Next stop was historical town Galle inscribed on the UNESCO list. A magnificent Dutch fort is the most popular attraction here. Nearby is a Dutch reformed church and narrow streets of the Old Town.
The rest of our stay we bathed in a warm ocean, enjoyed local meals and fruits, did some souvenir shopping, visited the family of our friend Ravi and went to a Muslim quarter and the oldest mosque on the island.
Last night I walked to the empty beach, stars and moonlight were shining on the dark sky and the air was so rich filled by fruit, flowers, trees, ocean... I have decided to come back soon..
Here are CONTACTS for wonderful people who we spent a lot of time with:
Ravi - kongo player and singer, wonderful barbecue cook, good friend and a guide. He can arrange for you trips, fun, yoga, anything. Ravi speaks excellent English. Girls, don't miss this handsome young guy! His phone: +94774981605, or e-mail: Ravichaturanga@yahoo.com Please let him know by text message about the email. His website: www.kandrsrilankatours.com
Ananda and his brother-in-law Nimal - very good chauffeurs, guides and friends - phone: 0094 77 7601470. E- mail: nsha@sltnet.lk. They will help with an itinerary based on your available time and budget.
For a room in Moragalle, Beruwala in a lovely beach house, please contact Tikiri's phone: 0094 77 9863495, address: No. 121 Maradana Road, Godella, Moragalla, Beruwala, email: pliyanaarachchi@yahoo.com. Tikiri has a wonderful wife Dinusha who prepares breakfast and beatiful children Meesha and Vishmal. Price: 26 euro per night/per room for 2 people including breakfast (wonderful tea). There are 4 rooms available at the moment, instead of air condition a fresh breeze comes from the ocean..
What we paid for 2 people on the first 6 days trip: The cost of 6 days trip including airport pick up, 5 nights in air conditioned, clean and pleasant hotels including breakfast and dinner, air conditioned minibus Toyota (up to 7 people), driver/guide and his services, entrance fees and local guides (who were licensed and had amazing knowledge of the places mentioned above) Total: US$ 1280.
The trip to Sinharaja Rain Forest, Yala National Park and stay in Beruwala was paid separately.
Please count on extra money on lunches, fruits, gratuity for porters and guides, Spice Garden, charity and of course other entertainment. There are ATMs, some places take credit cards however cash is preferred. Last advise - don't give the Sri Lankans your phone number...
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Copyright 2023 Eva Trkalova
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